![]() Other laudable taco fillings include fried avocado, cauliflower “chorizo” and chicken order them in singles or in family packs meant to feed four to five people. If a few carnitas happen to topple into an order of fries covered in Mission fig mole, even better. ![]() For unabashed stress eating, I love the fries given the nacho treatment with molten yellow cheese, pintos, cebollitas and cilantro. Ropy, crunchy duck carnitas, packed into tacos or enveloped in a burrito, are the clutch order at this Eagle Rock institution. You can also disappear into the very midcentury American platillo especial, made with two birria burritos baked, like overfilled enchiladas, in green chile pork sauce and cheese that melts to rivulets. The stateside locations in Santa Ana and El Monte maintain the simplicity. The winning equation: spiced stewed beef (and nothing else) swaddled in a flour tortilla that’s crisped on the griddle to a golden sturdiness. Long before the recent birria mania, the Bañuelos Lugo family perfected the birria burrito at its first taqueria in Jerez, Zacatecas, back in the early 1980s. So did the tortas, tamales, tlayudas, burritos, rellenos, barbacoa, frijoles, ensalada de nopales and arroz con leche I’ve savored from nearly two dozen restaurants over the last week.ġ050 Flower St., Los Angeles, (213) 749-1460, ![]() I grabbed the food and bolted the process felt about as safe and seamless as is humanly possible right now.Īvila’s tacos nourished me on many levels. She came out, waved hello and smiled, placed a bag on a precisely distanced table and disappeared back inside. At 5 p.m., I stood at the restaurant’s entrance behind a line of thick black tape and, as instructed by a sign, texted my name to a staffer. I paid for my order online, naming a specific window of time to claim my meal. I gobbled one recently while picking up an “emergency taco kit” from Avila’s Guerrilla Tacos in the Arts District. ![]() It’s a patch of sunshine on days when we may not be otherwise noticing blue sky. There is hope in the sight of Wes Avila’s sweet potato taco splotched with almond salsa. From the Tlacolula Market to Arlington Heights, Maria Ramos has attained a level of craft that makes Oaxacalifornia a destination for Oaxacan cuisine.The Gish Bac tlayuda from Gish Bac in Mid City. Traditional cooks like Maria hold a special place in the Mexican kitchen, and the pre-Hispanic techniques of barbacoa, or barbecue, are essentials in a cuisine whose primary flavor is smoke. The drippings and paste are used to make a rich, perfumed stock that’s served with the goat. On the weekends, Maria, a third-generation barbacoa master, prepares an aromatic paste of chiles, herbs, spices and other ingredients on fresh goat, then roasts it in a pot. Gish Bac is the most respected Oaxacan restaurant in Los Angeles among Oaxacans, primarily for its leadership in putting on events like the Feria de Tejate (Tejate Festival) and for Maria’s barbacoa enchilada (goat barbacoa). In the following years, people were begging Maria to open a restaurant, so the Tlacolulan community would have a place to enjoy goat barbacoa on the weekends - in 2010, Maria and David opened an Arlington Heights spot called Gish Bac, which means “Tlacolula” in Zapotec. When they arrived in 1992, finding work in Los Angeles wasn’t as easy as they imagined, so Maria and David began making goat barbacoa, mole negro, and other Oaxacan dishes for Oaxacan and Central American weddings and parties. Gish Bac is the most respected Oaxacan restaurant in Los Angeles among Oaxacans
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